Mortared and Concrete Walls

Mortared walls involve somewhat simpler construction problems than dry walls. The mortar serves as the bond and it is not as essential to match the stones. For the masonry wall, a cement mixture of 1 part Portland cement and 2 parts sand is a good bonding agent. Mortar should be liberally applied to form a bed for each stone as it is added, and the chinks between stones should be well filled with smaller pebbles or gravel. The mortared wall is much more permanent than a dry wall and easier to build.

A concrete wall has greater strength than either a masonry wall or a dry wall. It requires the building of forms however, which is a somewhat more technical job. The forms should extend well below the frost line. They can be constructed of 1 x 6 scrap lumber, held together by any length lath or 1 x 2 that is handy. Wire screening is inserted in the concrete to add strength and prevent bubbling or cracking. Such a reinforced concrete wall can be much thinner than either a dry wall or a masonry wall. The inner surface of the concrete wall should be sealed by using a waterproofing compound or tar paper.

The top of every wall, whether concrete, dry wall, or masonry, needs protection. This is afforded by using broad, flat stones as capstones to the wall. These can be slate or flat stones acquired in the course of collecting the material for the wall.

Steps

Steps present as ideal an opportunity for beautifying the outdoors as any other item on your landscaping agenda. Materials which can be used vary from round-cut logs to concrete, brick or stone. Standard step dimensions for outdoors should be the same as for indoor steps, particularly in areas frequently used. The tread should be 10 inches deep and the risers about 7 1/2 inches. Treads should be 1/4 inch lower in the front than they are in the back to permit drainage. For any steps other than those made of rounds of logs, a good foundation is essential.